Local Ecuador Tripbod Karen introduces her hometown of Cuenca, and why free concerts, awesome hiking, local celebrities and great food mean she’s in no hurry to move her family on from this rich cultural hub.
What makes Cuenca unique?
How about a UNESCO World Heritage city center, close access to hiking from 1, 000 to 4, 000 meters and the home of handicrafts such as the Panama Hat – yes it comes from Cuenca!
Cuenca is a quiet and sedate city. Away from the colonial centers are still very pretty areas. There are four (or more) rivers that cross the city and unlike in many cities, the rivers flow clean with trees and green areas on either side. This means that no matter where you go, you are sure to find a quiet area for walking or resting.
There are some excellent museums and a real effort by the mayor to make Cuenca a cultural city. This means regular free concerts and events of all kinds: from symphony orchestras to rock bands.
What is your favourite weekend activity in Cuenca?
Exploring villages around Cuenca – from colonial haciendas, to desolate moorland to community tourism in Saraguro or Chobshi. There are rivers, waterfalls, forests, orchid gardens, hot springs and much more. It’s just a case of going and finding out. Of course Sundays can be very pleasant in Cuenca with the city almost empty and most museums now open Sundays till midday.
What is your favourite local tradition?
Speed walking. Olympic speed walker Jefferson Perez is probably Cuenca’s most beloved son. In Parque de la Madre afternoons, Cuencanas come out to the ‘Escuela de Marcha’ to practice speed walking.
Where’s the best place to celebrate a special occassion in Cuenca?
Dinner at Tiestos – hands down the best restaurant in Cuenca. The table has to be  booked in advance and then instead of reading the menu, just take the chef’s suggestions on a couple of large dishes to share between four. I can never manage the desert, even though it sounds delicious.
Then if it’s Wednesday, go on to Inca Lounge for open mic night and hope to get a seat. The place can get pretty packed what with all the musicians as well as the people who’ve come to hear them play.
I only have 24 hours in Cuenca, what should I do?
- Riverside breakfast
Start with breakfast in the café above the Barranco Panama Hat factory, or Kookaburraa Café, Café Florian, or Las Brujos – nearly all of which have great views looking over the Tomebamba River.
Next, hop on the 10.20am  bus to Cajas National Park for some good old tramping around high moorland (or paramo).
- Hitch a ride & fish for your lunch
After a satisfying couple of hours with nobody else around, thumb a lift in a truck or passing school bus down to Virgen del Cajas and one of the collection of trout restaurants along the road there. My favourite is ‘the one with the wheel’. You can fish for your or let the staff do it for you and eat grilled or fried; maybe in garlic sauce.
- Visit hot springs
Wait for a passing taxi or bus back to town and then continue by bus or taxi to Baňos. Not the famous town of Baňos but the small village on the edge of Cuenca. Chose from incredibly hot indoor pools or the more natural surroundings of Piedra de Agua. Mud bath anyone?
If you are hungry, just head to the street next to the entrance to Hotel Duran. Here is a collection of typical restaurants serving very hearty local food featuring mote (corn), llapingacho (mashed potato patties) and menestra (lentils in a sauce).
- Salsa!
Head back into town and, it it’s a Saturday, the British owned Eucalyptus; Saturday is live salsa night.
Cuenca Tripbod Karen offers 1-to-1 tailored trip planning at tripbod.com. Contact Karen directly to create your unique Cuenca and Ecuador travel experiences



















