Cuenca: There’s much more to my city than Panama hats

Local Ecuador Tripbod Karen introduces her hometown of Cuenca, and why free concerts, awesome hiking, local celebrities and great food mean she’s in no hurry to move her family on from this rich cultural hub.

What makes Cuenca unique?

How about a UNESCO World Heritage city center, close access to hiking from 1, 000 to 4, 000 meters and the home of handicrafts such as the Panama Hat – yes it comes from Cuenca!

Cuenca is a quiet and sedate city.  Away from the colonial centers are still very pretty areas.  There are four (or more) rivers that cross the city and unlike in many cities, the rivers flow clean with trees and green areas on either side.  This means that no matter where you go, you are sure to find a quiet area for walking or resting.

There are some excellent museums and a real effort by the mayor to make Cuenca a cultural city.  This means regular free concerts and events of all kinds: from symphony orchestras to rock bands.

What is your favourite weekend activity in Cuenca?

Exploring villages around Cuenca – from colonial haciendas, to desolate moorland to community tourism in Saraguro or Chobshi.  There are rivers, waterfalls, forests, orchid gardens, hot springs and much more.  It’s just a case of going and finding out.  Of course Sundays can be very pleasant in Cuenca with the city almost empty and most museums now open Sundays till midday.

What is your favourite local tradition?

Speed walking.  Olympic speed walker Jefferson Perez is probably Cuenca’s most beloved son.  In Parque de la Madre afternoons, Cuencanas come out to the ‘Escuela de Marcha’ to practice speed walking.

Where’s the best place to celebrate a special occassion in Cuenca?

Dinner at Tiestos – hands down the best restaurant in Cuenca.  The table has to be  booked in advance and then instead of reading the menu, just take the chef’s suggestions on a couple of large dishes to share between four.  I can never manage the desert, even though it sounds delicious.

Then if it’s Wednesday, go on to Inca Lounge for open mic night and hope to get a seat.  The place can get pretty packed what with all the musicians as well as the people who’ve come to hear them play.

I only have 24 hours in Cuenca, what should I do?

- Riverside breakfast

Start with breakfast in the café above the Barranco Panama Hat factory, or Kookaburraa Café, Café Florian, or Las Brujos – nearly all of which have great views looking over the Tomebamba River.

Next, hop on the 10.20am  bus to Cajas National Park for some good old tramping around high moorland (or paramo).

- Hitch a ride & fish for your lunch

After a satisfying couple of hours with nobody else around, thumb a lift in a truck or passing school bus down to Virgen del Cajas and one of the collection of trout restaurants along the road there.  My favourite is ‘the one with the wheel’.  You can fish for your or let the staff do it for you and eat grilled or fried; maybe in garlic sauce.

- Visit hot springs

Wait for a passing taxi or bus back to town and then continue by bus or taxi to Baňos.  Not the famous town of Baňos but the small village on the edge of Cuenca.  Chose from incredibly hot indoor pools or the more natural surroundings of Piedra de Agua.  Mud bath anyone?

If you are hungry, just head to the street next to the entrance to Hotel Duran.  Here is a collection of typical restaurants serving very hearty local food featuring mote (corn), llapingacho (mashed potato patties) and menestra (lentils in a sauce).

- Salsa!

Head back into town and, it it’s a Saturday, the British owned Eucalyptus; Saturday is live salsa night.

Cuenca Tripbod Karen offers 1-to-1 tailored trip planning at tripbod.com. Contact Karen directly to create your unique Cuenca and Ecuador travel experiences

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Christchurch calling: Why the time to travel to New Zealand is right now

If you’re wondering how you can help the people of New Zealand get back on their feet after the Canterbury earthquake, the best thing to do according to Blog4NZ, and New Zealand Tripbod Paul, is to travel there.

Blog4NZ is a grassroots blogging and social media campaign supporting New Zealand’s recovery through travel, and Tripbod Paul, author of the Rough Guide to New Zealand is putting this plan into action – getting back on the road and doing what he does best – travelling. 

Who better to share their New Zealand off-the-beaten track travel plans with you first-hand, than the man who’s spent his life exploring and writing about his homeland. Read about Tripbod Paul’s Easter trip below, the hidden delights of New Zealand he intends to explore and how spending money locally now can make a real difference..

A few days ago I was trying to book a campervan for a few days over Easter. It has to have a shower and toilet,  my partner said so, and beside it will give us greater flexibility if we decide to spend the night roadside.

I assumed there would be no problem reserving as the summer season is tailing off. Not so. Many of the shower-equipped campervans across the country have been requisitioned as accommodation for those who have lost their houses in the Christchurch quake.

Still, we did manage to get a van and I can’t wait to get on the road. I’ve travelled a lot New Zealand writing guidebooks and photographing the country, and it can sometimes feel like I’ve done almost everything. Certainly I’ve l tramped to some remote huts along wonderful tracks, bungied off numerous bridges, swum with a few dolphins and have been welcomed numerous times tongue-poking Maori warriors. But this trip is all about the small things.

We’ll drive past the adventure tourism sites and big name attractions favouring the quiet pleasures of parking beside and estuary for a hour or two, brewing up and setting in with a book occasionally looking up to see the birdlife changing with the tide.

We’ll hike up a rugged hill to a stupendous viewpoint then soak away the muscle aches in a natural hot pools surrounded by tree ferns.

We’ll take the slower road (possibly gravel in places) and buy a meat pie and an icecream at the store in villages so small that you know any money you spend will help keep the place viable.

We’ll probably get stuck behind a flock of sheep, or dairy cows being driven to milking. But that’s OK.

We’ll visit a winery and perhaps a farmers’ market before retreating to some quiet spot where no one is going to disturb us as we whip up a simple but delicious meal then sit on the dunes sipping our wine. (Must remember to pack the decent wine glasses).

One night we’ll find a fish and chip shop and eat crumbed snapper and a few battered scallops with our legs swinging off the wharf. And while we do we’ll spare a though for friends and relatives in Christchurch escaped the worst, but are still (a month on) having to boil their drinking water and are plagued by almost daily aftershocks that keep them on edge.

Join Paul’s efforts and put New Zealand back at the top of your travel list to experience first-hand that the country has far from shut-up shop.

Paul offers tailor-made 1-to-1 trip planning for independent travellers on Tripbod.com. Contact Paul to plan a peronal trip uniquely designed around your interests, budget and tastes.

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Wild side of Cumbria: Getting off-the-beaten track in the Lake District

Borneo Tripbod Dom Hall divides his time between training individuals with Field Skills in the Lake District and leading expeditions on the ground in Borneo. The best of both worlds many would argue.

His unique perspective means he can help visitors explore an alternative side of both destinations, where adrenaline, adventure and famous natural beauty are blended into the perfect mix.

Here’s how a weekend in the Lake District can look if you choose to live life on the wild side with the help of Tripbod Dom.

An adventure weekend itinerary in the Lake District

The monstrous mountains and fearful landscape, terms used by early Lake District explorers to warn people of the dangers of the area, have long inspired me and shaped my working life as an expedition leader and field safety trainer. And what a place it is to get off-the-beaten-track and away from the usual tourist haunts.

Friday evening

Stationed at our unique site in a little visited corner of the Lakes near Grizebeck, we set up an informal camp fire ready for dinner. There’s no rushing off to a gastro pub, just hearty camp fire food with a nod to local suppliers and plenty of carbohydrates to keep us going. Based around a beautiful Yurt in the heart of Lake District farmland, there’s fireside expedition chat and story exchanges as well as a chance to drink tea that tastes 100% better simply for the fact that you have all the time in the world to enjoy it!

Saturday

Today, a short walk – with no exact destination in mind but plenty of time to explore what’s on offer here – takes us to our next campsite. Here we take advantage of the landscape to bring some jungle expedition skills to our doorstep! We use our knowledge of hammocks and bashas and our tropical camping skills, including (safe) use of a machete to prepare firewood, and build a fire ready to cook dinner. We even build a basic parachute shelter as a social area for the evening.

We then spend the evening enjoying the fruits of our labours with dinner over the open fire and (hopefully) a comfy night in our hammocks. This is an adventure where the phrase ‘nothing good was ever easily got’ comes to mind! We’re in the midst of an awe inspiring landscape using age old skills and relishing the challenges that the Lake District environment offers!

Sunday

We get an early start (normally guaranteed by the night in our hammock!) and head off into the Lakes – we look at navigation using GPS, managing emergencies in the field, lost and search procedures – and head towards the beautiful Lake Coniston for a basic picnic lunch. Most people view the Lakes as picture postcard vistas, we use them to explore the techniques involved in river crossings and safety on and around water!

After an action packed, physical weekend, we head back to our original starting point before returning home.

And throughout it all we’ve have fells, mountains, farmland, woodland, crags, gullies, rivers, meres and lakes…and that wide expanse of sky that regularly packs several seasons into one day.

For me this is the only way to see the real Lake District!

For more information on joining Tripbod Dom and his team for a weekend off the beaten track in the Lake District visit his expedition website Field Skills

To get 1-to-1 expert advice and a bespoke travel itinerary for your adventure trip to Borneo visit Dom’s Tripbod profile

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Cambodia Tripbod Ecolodge stars in New York Times

Proof that responsible travel doesn’t mean sacrificing the finer things in life. Rainbow Lodge in Cambodia, owned by inspirational local Tripbod Janet is one of the best eco-friendly resorts in the area AND caters to more luxury-orientated travellers.

The growth of these resorts in Koh Kong province, Cambodia, has attracted the travel industry’s attention far and wide, recently featuring in the New York Times. We’d proud to see Janet and like-minded locals in the region getting the recognition they deserve.

‘Responsible’ and ‘Sustainable’ tourism labels can so often go misunderstood. Eco-tourism is not about sacrifice – facilities or otherwise – it’s about a more mindful experience of a place that benefits and even enhances all elements involved.

We hope coverage like this is the sign of a marginalized movement starting to make its way to the mainstream – there really is no better alternative to travel.

Janet Newman is our passionate local Tripbod in Cambodia and on hand to co-create your unique travel itinerary at Tripbod.com.

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Paris: How and where to practice the local ‘Art of Waiting’

Paris Tripbod Charles reveals his favourite Parisien trait – the unique art of waiting – how to make the experience positive and where to practice like a local.

For a big, progressive city, Paris has an exceptional wait time. Everything that we do in Paris takes a few minutes longer than in any other world capital and as such, it has become an art form.

Waiting has reminded me how much of a Parisian I’ve become that I’m actually writing about it.  All good Parisians wait for the absurd and waiting and doing nothing is a thing that has to be done well. I mean when do we get a chance to really wait and plunge ourselves into the joys of doing nothing?

Negative wait times

In this age of waiting with iPods and Blackberries the wait is actually doing something while doing nothing. They’re more of a fashionable disconnect than a legitimate wait time. Technology has helped us deal with negative wait times in administration queues, airport security, the grocery store, and any other queue where you need to appear coherent. Some of these queues require heavy stimulants as in the Metro – I’m sure you know what I mean.

Positive wait times

What is a positive wait time? You just ordered a Vodka Martini. You’re waiting for a loved one on your favourite Parisian street, in a restaurant, the Park, waiting for a newborn.  Rendezvousing is the perfect positive joyous anticipation of wait.  You’re focused on your environment and the person you are waiting for.

If you’re lucky or mindful, the wait can be exciting beyond your limits and it’s your choice. As the French say ‘C’est pas grave Cherie/It isn’t grave dear’.
Best Paris waiting spots

To experience Paris as a true Parisian local therefore you must master the art of waiting, and furthermore know the best spots to do it in. My top picks are:

  • All Cafés (obvious but true)
  • St Michel Fountain
  • Montmartre tube station “Abesses”
  • Odeon Danton’s Statue – Odeon Tube Station
  • Under the Eiffel Tower: Keep your eyes open in this Nucleus.

Know any more?

Charles Pineda is our local Tripbod in Paris and offers 1-to-1 tailor-made trip planning to suit any length of holiday, budget and special interests.

He also runs his own website for ex-pats to connect and meet in Pars: www.ex-pats-paris.com

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Exploring Leeds hidden waterfront: Top local guide for things to do and see

Guest blog author Darren Cronian, editor of My Life in Leeds guide, shares his favourite secret place in Leeds with us – the waterfront – in his local guide to the best things to do and see in the area.

Visit my home city of Leeds and you’ll probably not notice that we have a thriving waterfront, unless you are lucky enough to find a sign directing you to it. The waterfront is split up into three locations; Brewery wharf, Clarence Dock and Granary wharf.

Granary Wharf

If you turn right as you come out of the train station and head through the ‘dark arches’ as the locals call it, you’ll find sign posts to Granary Wharf. This area of the waterfront has gone through a lot of redevelopment in the last five years, and is now home to the Mint Hotel (formally known as the City Inn) Candle house (an odd err candle shaped building) and various apartments next to the canal basin.  From here you can walk or bike along the Leeds & Liverpool canal for miles and miles.

Within Granary wharf itself you will find The Hop, a real ale pub, with live music and big screen to watch sport. Next door is a Japanese restaurant called Wasabi Teppan-Yaki. The latest restaurant to open in the wharf is Fazenda, a Brazilian steak restaurant that is getting good reviews from locals.

Brewery Wharf

Head towards Kirkgate market and walk through the Leeds Parish church on to the Calls where you will find a number of bars and restaurants, including the Argentinean Riverplate steak house, and boutique hotel, 42 The Calls.  Recommended is a visit to Calls Landing, a pub where you can sit outside and look across the river, with its great views.

As you walk down the calls you will find the Centenary Bridge which leads to Brewery wharf. The popular Oracle bar is always busy, especially in the summer as people sit outside in the sunshine. There are a number of restaurants in the square, and entrance to Jury’s hotel.

Clarence Dock

Walk along the riverside path from Brewery wharf for about 5 minutes and you will find Clarence Dock. Stand on the bridge and watch the canal boats navigate the river through the locks. Popular Indian restaurant Mumtaz sits on the dockside, opposite the restaurant is the Royal Armouries museum, which is free to enter and is highly recommended.  Along Clarence dock you’ll find a few shops, and restaurant, plus the Alea casino and Holiday Inn hotel.

In July the Leeds waterfront Festival takes place, which is one of my favourite events. There’s live music, market stalls, and loads of food and drink. Sit next to the riverside and listen to the music as you relax in the sunshine.

Darren Cronian is the editor of the guide, My Life in Leeds, written by locals who are passionate about the city and want to share their experiences.  (Sounds like a perfect Tripbod to us.)

Visit My Life in Leeds to find out more about attractions in Leeds and places to visit to help you discover the local side of the city.

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My Oman unadventure: Why I should have gone to Tripbod

An experienced travel writer, York Tripbod Jill soon discovered first-hand why guidebooks and countless past adventures are no match for the value of local expert knowledge in Oman.

Below she reflects on her journey and the wonders of all the travel experiences that might have been. If only she’d gone to Tripbod!

I’ve just returned from Oman. I was there on business -  the AGM of the British Guild of Travel Writers. We were flown out by Oman Air and lavishly wined and dined by the Omani Tourist Board. When it was over, we had time for a couple of days R & R and boy, should we have used a Tripbod.

Robby is our Oman Tripbod but  foolishly I’d been too busy before I left to get in touch. Never mind, I reckoned it shouldn’t be beyond me, a travel writer, to make the best of two precious days in this much underrated country. How wrong I was.

Our AGM was held at the swanky Millennium Hotel at Mussanah, a brand new hotel though not yet finished.  We were well looked after and they  kindly let us keep the rooms for the rest of our stay. What we hadn’t appreciated was that the hotel was 90 minutes from the capital Muscat and without a car, and no shuttle buses in place, we were effectively marooned in the middle of nowhere. Now a Tripbod might well have warned us about this, recommended a hotel in town and worked out an itinerary.

We wasted much of our first precious day: begging a lift on the coach taking some of our colleagues to the airport then hanging around the offices of  Mark’s Tours organising a car and driver to take us out the following day.

Our day was trickling away. Never mind. We’d read the guide books, our plan was to go south by taxi to a picturesque fishing village, take a stroll before settling in for a good local lunch. Our driver, with very little English, had other plans. He took us to Muscat fish market (interesting, but almost over by this time), the souk and the museum which we’d visited the day before and then – surprise, surprise – lunch at his mate’s place and a fifty quid taxi ride home. Hmm.

The next day worked better. A taxi ride inland to Nizwah, a morning at the local goat market, lunch in a caf, and a visit to a couple of impressive ancient forts in the afternoon.

We’d had an interesting time, of course. I’m sure Oman lives up to its reputation as the most interesting of the Gulf states but there was still a gnawing sense of what might have been. We missed out on a desert night camp at Wahiba sands, a swim in Wadi Ban Khalid, a day in the mountains or dolphin watching down on the coast. And with so many other places round the world I still want to visit I don’t suppose I’ll see Oman again.

I like to think that Tripbod Robby could have helped us get it together, and if nothing else saved us a bag full of rials.

Have you ever ‘done a Jill’ and returned home from a place wishing you’d known better? We can certainly think of a time or two…

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Cambodia: Top 5 tips for going local

According to Tripbod Kang, the most enjoyable and memorable experience in Cambodia is not Angkor Wat and the temples, but the friendliness and helpful nature of its people.

From Saturday morning football in the Olympic stadium to the perfect breakfast rice porridge, top insider tips from Phnom Penh Tripbod Kang tell you how to go local.

1. Do a  Homestay

We have nature based tourism in Northeast of Cambodia with virgin forest, rare Irrawady dolphin in Kratie, minority people in Rattanakiri. This  area people have a chance to interact with local people by staying at home stay in the Community Based Tourism site a long the Mekong River. Not only this we have white sand beach with crystal clear water in Sihanoukville which people can spend few night there before leaving Cambodia for their home.

2. Explore by bike

I usually spend the weekends riding my Trek Mountain Bike to tourist attractions nearby Phnom Penh and interacting with friendly villagers along the way.  One of the most experienced cycling trips is to ride to Oudong, the 17th century capital city of Cambodia. It is fun and people in the villages that I pass like to get involved, giving me advice and telling me that I’m crazy riding a bike for 50km.

3. Dance at a festival

I like dancing and our popular local dances such as Rom Vong, Saravan, Lam Leav are my favourite traditional activities. I always dance with friends and relatives during special occasions like weddings, Khmer New Year in April every year and Pchum Ben Festival (the festival of the death).

4. Love rice

The typical breakfast for Cambodian people is Cambodian noodle, porridge or noodle (all made of rice) or plain old rice (leftovers) for local people in rural areas. When I was young I lived in rural Cambodia and my breakfast was old rice with palm juice, just before leaving to go to primary school.

5. Ask a local

What’s this? Why do you do that? Who are they? There are no silly questions and Cambodian people are happy to talk to you and help you if they can.

Every week after breakfast I leave Phnom Penh city to explore new trails for my clients in order to help them get off the beaten track and to ensure that I can always be knowledgeable as a local guide and Tripbod.

For personal one-to-one travel advice and ideas for your trip to Cambodia, contact Kang directly.

Got a tip for how to go local in Cambodia? We’d love to hear it.

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Perfect 24 hours in Perth

Can you tell he's a humorist?

Perth Tripbod Steve, shares his top personal recommendations for spending a dream day in the beautiful, riverside city. From cruising and whale-watching to fine dining and top casino entertainment – there’s a lot you can pack in to 24 hours in Perth with a little local inspiration…

Breakfast: Botanical Café

I’d start the day at the Botanical Café on Fraser Avenue in Kings Park for breakfast, enjoying the spectacular views of the Swan River and Perth city and surrounds as I choose from their sumptuous menu.

Getting around: Swan River & harbor cruise

Then I’d hire a boat to pick me up from Barrack St Jetty in the city for a cruise down the Swan River to Fremantle, passing all the magnificent mansions, sail through the harbour and out onto Gage Roads (it’s a shipping channel) for the crossing to Rottnest Island.

Things to do: Rottnest Island Whale watching

We’d moor off the island for a day of swimming and snorkeling, enjoy a light lunch on board and in the early afternoon head back to the city. With a bit of luck we would be able to watch whales as they headed north for the winter, and we should certainly see dolphins in the Swan River.

Accommodation: Riverside Burswood Resort

A limo would pick us up and take us to the Intercontinental as Burswood Resort, where we would check in to a suite.  After check in I would go for a refreshing walk along the Swan River foreshore, before returning to the hotel for a bit of a rest and a shower.

Dinner: Amuse degustation menu & fine Australian wine

At about 7pm we would be picked up by limo again and driven to Restaurant Amuse in Bronte St, East Perth for chef Hadleigh Troy’s incredible 9 course degustation menu that would be accompanied by some fine West Australians wines.

Entertainment: Burswood casino

Afterwards it would be back to Burswood, but not to bed.  Back at the hotel, we would cross the foyer to the casino, not so much to gamble but to enjoy some of the entertainment available in any of the many bars.

After a late night, head back up to the suite.

Heading to Perth or been there already? What else would you pack into your dream 24 hours?

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Exploring Holland’s Good & Green Heart: Top local things to do near Rotterdam & Utrecht

Holland Tripbod Emilie is perfectly placed in the Green Heart (het Groene Hart) to experience the best of Holland’s rural centre. From Rotterdam to Utrecht, Den Haag to Leiden, and all the hidden villages in between, Good & Green Guidebook author Emilie, shares her favourite local things to do below.

What’s unique about the Groene Hart?

The Green Heart (het Groene Hart) is an area in the middle of the western part of Holland surrounded by well-known cities such as Rotterdam, Den Haag, Leiden, Haarlem, Amsterdam and Utrecht. Although the west of Holland (de Randstad) is generally perceived as busy and congested, the Groene Hart is characterized by its rural character which contrasts the urban areas around it.

Agriculture, nature and recreation are the primary activities in the Groene Hart and there are many options to choose from such as:

  • visiting charming smaller cities like Gouda, Oudewater and Schoonhoven
  • cycling the many routes set out for locals and visitors
  • exploring the area from a canoe or sailing boat on the many lakes and rivers

What is your favourite weekend activity in the Groene Hart?

Depending on the weather and season I like to go out for a bike ride. I live in Gouda at the moment so I can easily do circuits that take in places like Oudewater or Schoonhoven which are great pit stops along the way. In summer there are lots of nice terraces to sit to catch your breath and have coffee or lunch. You can cover a lot of ground on a bike in Holland. Most people can do about 15 to 20 km an hour.

Another favourite summer activity is to head for the beach near Den Haag which you can reach by train and tram. You can combine cycling or walking through beautiful dune scenery in Meijendel with a bit of lounging on the beach. From April till October all the beach hospitality businesses are open (we call them standtenten) and they are great for lunch or dinner and drinks while watching the sunset. Most foreign visitors are usually very impressed with Dutch beach culture. You just need to be lucky with the weather.

In winter I like to go back to the village where I grew up called Reeuwijk where we have several small lakes and if the winter is cold enough we can skate all around them. There are usually 2 routes set out: a 25 and a 50km and there are pit stops along the way. If you can’t get from one lake to the next by going under bridge you walk over the road with your skates on. This is called ‘klunen’. You either put protectors under your skates or if you’re lucky some friendly locals have put old bits of carpet over the road so you don’t ruin your skates.

What is your favourite local Dutch tradition?

I love our skating fascination. You can’t get Dutch people more excited than when it’s a crisp, cold winter and everybody digs up their speed skates. Most skate routes have Koek en Zopies along the routes where you can tuck into thick pea soup with sausage (erwtensoep met rookworst) or hot chocolate with rum. When I go back to my home town for a day’s skating I usually bump into all my old class mates from primary school who have come home for the day to get out on the ice!

What is a typical breakfast for locals in Holland?

We do not have a cooked breakfast culture like the British do but tend to opt for sliced bread or fresh rolls with a selection of sliced meats and hard cheeses (a bit like the Germans do). We also have lots of sweet sprinkles (hagelslag, vlokken, muisjes) that especially children like having on bread. Eggs are usually boiled but you can opt for fried eggs with melted cheese on top (uitsmijter).

How do you celebrate your birthday in the Groene Haart?

My birthday is in April so it’s in Spring which means it can be a bit hit and miss with the weather. To be safe I usually invite people round to my house for tea and fresh apple pie (appeltaart) and then a bit later it’s time for drinks and nibbles (borreltijd).

You have 24 hours in the Groene Haart, what would you do?

I would start the day early to get out on the water in a sailing boat (popular are de Valk or a BM) in a place like Loosdrecht to get close to nature. I would then have an early lunch there in a waterfront restaurant like In de Watertuin. Then I would pick up a bike to cycle to Utrecht via places like Westbroek which will lead past some beautiful old farmhouses.

In Utrecht I would first go for a few wheat beers (witbier) and bitterballen on one the many squares like the Neude and then go for a nice Indonesian meal (rijsttafel) at Restaurant Blauw.

Contact Tripbod Emilie for bespoke advice and personal recommendations to make the most of  your trip to the centre of Holland.

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